15 September 2007

This is where being frugal gets you

As a student, or recent graduate, I'm travelling on a tight budget, and Ben and I have found as many corners to cut as possible. Our hostels are amazingly cheap by American standards ($5-10 per night!), and we also registered for student cards so we get 50% off all entrance fees. To limit transportation costs, we have now mastered the metro here, now we can move around Cairo for about 20 cents a ride. Not a bad deal.

Today, our plan was to visit two sites with pyramids, more obscure and farther away than the Great Pyramids at Giza. We decided to avoid taxis because they have proved relatively expensive, and pretty unreliable. (On our first day, our cab broke down on the highway, and we had to wait an hour for another). Our guide book suggested taking a series of public buses, but that means navigating a system almost exclusively in Arabic -which we don't speak- and finding the correct bus at the "station." The buses load in something like a parking lot with no discernible order.

So, we decided to take the metro as far south as it would go and then try to find a cheaper cab. We figured the price would be down because we were closer to out destination and we were out of the busiest part of the city. We got off the train and found ourselves in an area much rougher than the tourist hot spots. The streets were dirtier than downtown and there we not as many police. We finally found a driver who agreed to a reasonable price, and he swept us off on an interesting adventure.

To be honest, I was not sure that the driver would take us to the correct destination, and if he did, I assumed he would demand more money than the agreed amount. Our first half hour with him did not set my mind at ease. After about 5 minutes he made a rough U-turn and stopped at a gas station. (Gas, by the way, is unbelievably cheap -- about 8 cents a litre). I started to fiddle with my door to roll down the window, and the driver reached around and locked my door! Being locked in began a string of exaggerated worries; like, maybe we were about to be kidnapped or driven and left in the middle of the desert.

I started to feel better when we saw the Nile and reoriented to the area. But, instead of heading for the bridge to cross he drove down a dead-end road towards the river itself. The language barrier made it difficult for him to explain anything, and when we stopped on the bank, he didn't even try to explain. We sat in silence until he pointed to an approaching ferry. I breather a sigh of relief to know that we were at least crossing to the right side of the river.

As the ferry pulled up, I saw a very random assortment of vehicles. In addition to several pedestrians, the boat unloaded bikes, cars, a donkey cart, and a tractor. So we eased our way across the Nile. When our driver got out to walk around, he left his radio on for us, and we listened to prayers and religious discussion in Arabic for most of the ride. It was only when we got back to busy roads that I started to trust him, who turned out to be a great help most of the day.

We negotiated a pretty low fare to be driven around each of the sites and back to Cairo, and our driver stayed with us all morning. If we had not decided to take a chance with him, we would have wandered around, found even sketchier transportation, and walked too much under the midday African sun. We spent more than we planned, but it's hard not to when your initial budget is as small as ours.

PS- Sorry to the people who checked my blog when I was in Haiti, and even after I got back. The technology deficiency made it difficult to post while I was gone, but I dropped the ball in writing my reflections. Sorry!

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