Experiencing Paris

Throughout our time in Europe this fall we visited Paris three times. It wasn't until our last visit that we really experienced the city. We visited the Louvre, the Eiffel Tower, and Montmartre with the Sacre Coeur within two days. Maybe it's because we've been living in France, but I wasn't especially enchanted by the city. It was chilly and gray outside, and even in the off season, the attractions seemed crowded.

The Mona Lisa is probably the most famous painting in the Louvre, and the room of people pressing towards it seemed to prove it's popularity. She has her own guard, a railing, and a few layers of glass for protection. With so much traffic and cameras flashing, it's easy to forget how neat it is to see the original painting.

I was even more impressed with a few larger paintings by the French artists Ingres and Delacroix. These two artists created works that I studied last year. It was incredible to see the larger-than-life originals of images I'd only seen on a computer screen. It has been amazing to experience French/ Francophone art, literature, and history in their true context. The Eiffel Tour is really big and interesting, but I am most excited by the art I've studied.

A Mild Christmas

The temperature this week has been hovering above freezing, and that is the coldest weather I've felt since we were in Germany. Before I moved here I was really excited to learn that the temperature in this region doesn't wander much below 32°F or above 75°F. Now, however, it's hard to get into the Christmas spirit without even a chance of snow.

To celebrate the season every city in France adorns the streets with lights. There are Chirstmas markets everywhere and the malls have wierd displays with arctic animals (i.e. walrus and penguins). Speaking of animals, the city has built stables along the walls of a Notre Dame church by my house. Starting last week, we have a regular petting zoo on the square, complete with donkeys, sheep, goats, OXEN, roosters, a PIG, etc, znd all in one pen! There is also a separate enclosure with stout little ponies.

Last Christmas when I came home I happened across a camel and a donkey outside a big church. I guess it's more ridiculous to see those animals in suburban middle America than to see farm animals in rural-ish France. I still think it's strange. It appears that people like live nativity scenes all over the world.

That said, the animals don't really do it for me. And while the Christmas music piped through the streets and the lights ornamenting inside and out are charming and festive, I am looking forward to some chilly weather. My parents fire place and heat that I don't pay for will make the cold bearable and the house cozy like I like it.

The Way to Their Hearts

I think I've found the way to my students' hearts, or at least their attention spans. Last time I tried to play music for class, my choices were too wrapped up in American hippy history and politics, and the tunes weren't catchy enough. Lately I've been playing and discussing two Beatles songs and two Green Day songs with much success.

Playing Green Day has allowed me to avoid giving in to requests for Fall Out Boy. That's a "pop-punk" group who's not-so-great music is reaching out to teenagers everywhere. There is a feature story on NPR about the group head man and his daring "guyliner." The article has some winning quotes, though I don't think I can make fun of them in class.

I'll just stick with "Yellow Submarine," because it's cute when they sing along (which many of them do).

Miracle of Miracles

We have the internet in the apartment. After signing my contract in October for our internet service, paying for a phone line installation, waiting, waiting, and calling technical assistance, we still had no internet, no dial tone, nothing. Last week I sent a letter of resignation to the company asking to cancel my contract, because I was dissatisfied with their technical and customer service. A week later, they sent a technician to the apartment, unannounced, who fiddled with the wires and established our connection.

Now we have the internet, unlimited calls in France and to the States, and cable TV (though no television set). I suppose it could cut off at any minute, so we've been downloading and emailing and calling furiously to get the most out of our precious time on the internet. I've paid for months of the service and we can only use it for two weeks. Figures.